‘Every Culinary Artist Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.
A Shocking Recognition
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Character of Simplicity
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.
A Signature Creation: Tantuni
However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.
Rising Above the Stars
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.
The Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Community
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.